Wondering what's going on in there?
How a garage door opens, in plain English
Here's the surprise: the opener doesn't lift your door. The springs do. They carry almost all of the door's weight, so the opener only has to guide it. That's why a broken spring stops everything.
- The springs. A big spring on a bar above the door (or one along each side track) holds most of the door's weight.
- The cables. Thin steel cables on each side connect the springs to the bottom of the door.
- The opener. A motor on the ceiling pulls a chain or belt along a rail.
- The red release cord. It unhooks the door from the opener so you can move it by hand, like in a power outage.
- The tracks and rollers. The door rolls up on small wheels inside two metal tracks.
So a door that won't open usually means one of these:
- No signal: no power, the Lock button, or a dead remote battery.
- The opener runs but isn't connected: the release was pulled, or its gears wore out.
- Something holds the door down: a broken spring, the door's own lock, or ice.
- It drags: stiff rollers, a bent track, or a setting.
Door goes up fine but won't come back down? See our guide to a garage door that won't close.
Rather not do it yourself? Call a garage door company.
That's a fine choice. Maybe you're busy. Maybe you're selling the house and just want it done right. A garage door company can fix springs and openers safely. Springs are dangerous to fix yourself.
Most garage door companies charge $50–$75 to come out, and many put that toward the repair.
Find garage door repair near you
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What to say
Calling a pro? Here's what to say.
A few lines to read when they pick up, and the questions to ask before anyone comes out.
Before you call
Say this
Hi. My garage door won't open. When's the soonest you can get here? And what's your fee for the visit? Does it go toward the repair?
Always ask
- What's your fee to come out, and does it go toward the repair?
- Will you tell me the full price before you start any work?
- Do your parts and labor come with a warranty?
Watch out if
- They push a whole new door or opener on the first visit for a small problem.
- They won't give you a price before starting.
- The price they gave on the phone jumps once they arrive.
Feeling pushed to decide on the spot? You can say no and hang up. You owe nothing for a phone call.
Answer up to 5 quick questions. We'll give you the words a pro uses.
Answer the questions →More of a list person?
Common problems, causes, tests and costs
Find the row that sounds like your door. The quick test is something you can check safely in a few minutes.
| What you notice | What it probably is | Quick test | Do it yourself | With a pro | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Loud bang; door crooked, very heavy or a cable hanging | A broken spring or cable | Look for a gap in the spring above the door, or a loose cable | Pro job | $100–$350 | CALLSee the answer: A broken spring or cable |
| Opener silent; its light won't come on | The opener has no power | Check the plug, the outlet and the breaker | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The opener has no power |
| Remote does nothing; Lock light on the wall panel | The Lock button is on | Look for a lit Lock button on the wall panel | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The Lock button is on |
| Wall button works, remote or keypad doesn't | The remote's or keypad's battery is dead | Try the wall button, then the remote | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The remote's or keypad's battery is dead |
| New battery, and it still won't work; the wall button works | The remote or keypad lost its pairing | Put in a new battery, then try it inside the garage | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The remote or keypad lost its pairing |
| Opener hums or runs, but the door doesn't move; red cord pulled | The emergency release was pulled | Check whether the door is unhooked from the rail | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The emergency release was pulled |
| Opener hums, but the door is locked shut | The door's own lock is latched | Look for a handle or slide bolt on the inside of the door | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The door's own lock is latched |
| Below freezing; the door lifts a little, then stops; seal stuck to the ground | The door is frozen to the ground | Look at the bottom seal | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The door is frozen to the ground |
| Cold weather; door sounds stiff or squeaky and stops partway | Stiff rollers, or the opener's settings | Listen to the door as it moves | Free | $100–$200 | FIXSee the answer: Stiff rollers, or the opener's settings |
| Stops partway up at the same spot every time | The open setting needs adjusting | Watch where it stops on a few tries | Free | Not needed | FIXSee the answer: The open setting needs adjusting |
| Opener hums or runs; the door is hooked up and unlocked, but doesn't move | The opener's gears or motor wore out | Check the release cord and the door's lock first | Pro job | $100–$940 | CALLSee the answer: The opener's gears or motor wore out |
| Track bent or a roller out; door binds or reverses | A bent track or loose rollers | Look at the tracks and rollers | Pro job | $100–$350 | CALLSee the answer: A bent track or loose rollers |
| Opener has power, Lock is off, nothing makes it move | A problem with the opener's brain | The light works, but nothing makes it move | Pro job | $150–$400 | CALLSee the answer: A problem with the opener's brain |
2026 U.S. averages, rounded. Pro prices include parts and labor. Most garage door companies charge $50–$75 to come out, and many put that toward the repair. Nights, weekends and big cities cost more. See all repair prices
Want proof it's the opener, not the door?
The lift test (door closed only)
This tells you whether the problem is the opener or the door itself. Do it only with the door fully closed, and only if the springs and cables look fine.
- Make sure the door is all the way down, and nobody is near it.
- Pull the red release cord down once to unhook the door.
- Lift the door by hand from the bottom handle, about 3 feet.
- Let go gently and watch.
- It lifts easily and stays put: the springs are fine. The problem is the opener, its settings or its power.
- It's heavy, or it slides back down: stop. A spring is weak or broken, or the door is frozen. Lower it gently and call a pro.
To re-hook it, close the door, pull the cord toward the door, and press the wall button. Overhead Door and the Craftsman opener manual both say to use the release with the door closed.
Not sure it's safe to keep trying?
Stop and call a pro right away if…
- You heard a loud bang from the garage. That's often a spring breaking.
- A cable is hanging loose, or the door hangs crooked.
- The door feels like dead weight when you try to lift it.
- A track is bent, or a roller has popped out.
- The opener smells hot, or the breaker trips again.
Don't pull the red cord with the door open, and never adjust springs or cables yourself. They're under very high tension.
Got a big repair quote?
Is the price fair?
Many won't-open problems are free: power, the Lock button, a battery, the release cord or the door's own lock. When you need a pro, here's what's fair:
- New springs: HomeGuide lists $150–$350 for both top springs and $120–$200 for both side springs. Fixr lists $120–$350.
- An opener repair: $100–$200 (HomeGuide) to $100–$300 (Fixr). A new opener installed is $300–$900 (HomeGuide) or $300–$940 (Fixr).
- A service call: Fixr lists $50–$75 to come out. Same-day emergency calls can add $100–$300.
Example: $250 to replace both springs is fair. $900 for one spring is worth a second quote.
Ran into a word you don't know?
Garage door words, explained
The drawings show roughly what each part looks like.
- Opener
- The motor on the ceiling that moves the door along a rail.
- Wall button
- The button inside the garage that runs the opener. Many have a Lock or Vacation button too.
- Lock mode
- A setting on the wall panel that turns off the remotes and keypad.
- Remote
- The small clicker in your car. Most take a coin battery.
- Keypad
- A small number pad outside the garage door. Most take a 9-volt battery.
- Learn button
- A small button on the opener's motor unit that pairs a remote or keypad with the opener. Genie calls it Program or Learn Code.
- Emergency release
- The red cord that unhooks the door from the opener. Use it only with the door closed.
- Springs
- Big coiled springs that carry the door's weight. They're under very high tension.
- Lift cables
- Thin steel cables on each side that connect the springs to the bottom of the door.
- Manual lock
- A handle or slide bolt on the inside of the door that locks it to the track.
- Bottom seal
- The rubber strip along the bottom of the door. It can freeze to the ground.
- Tracks and rollers
- The metal rails on each side, and the small wheels that roll inside them.
- Open limit
- The opener's setting for how far up the door goes.
- Garage door lube
- A silicone spray for rollers and hinges. Not the same as WD-40.
- Logic board
- The opener's circuit board. It takes the button's signal and runs the motor.
- Breaker
- A switch in your breaker box that cuts power when something goes wrong.
Still have questions?
Questions people ask most
Why won't my garage door open?
A garage door that won't open, or an opener that isn't working, most often has no power, the Lock button on, a dead remote battery, or the red release cord pulled. If the opener hums and the door won't move, or it lifts a few inches and stops, check the springs first. A broken spring is a job for a pro.
Is a garage door that won't open an emergency?
A garage door that won't open is an emergency if you heard a loud bang, a cable hangs loose, or the door feels like dead weight. Don't use it, and don't pull the red cord. Call a garage door pro. If the springs look fine, the free checks at the top often get it open.
Why won't my garage door open all the way?
A garage door that won't open all the way usually needs its open setting adjusted, or has stiff rollers in the cold or a weak spring. If it stops at the same spot every time, reset the open setting. Your opener's manual shows how.
Why does my garage door opener hum but the door won't move?
An opener that hums but won't move the door may have its red release cord pulled, the door's own lock latched, or stripped gears. A broken spring can also stop it, so look at the springs first.
How do I open my garage door without power?
To open a closed garage door without power, pull the red release cord and lift the door by hand, but only if the springs look fine. If it's heavy or won't stay up, a spring may be broken. Don't force it. When the power's back, close the door, pull the red cord toward the door once, and press the wall button. The opener should hook back on with a click (Genie). Some openers need a minute to reset first.
Can I open a garage door with a broken spring?
No, don't open a garage door with a broken spring. Without a working spring, the door is very heavy and can slam down. Genie says to call a pro and not use the door.
Why won't my garage door open in the cold?
A garage door that won't open in the cold may have its bottom seal frozen to the ground, or old grease that has thickened. Overhead Door says to thaw the seal with a hair dryer and use silicone lube, not WD-40.
Why is my garage door remote not working?
A garage door remote that stops working while the wall button still works usually has a dead battery, the Lock button on, or has lost its pairing with the opener. Try a new battery first. Then turn Lock off on the wall panel. Then pair it again with the Learn button on the opener's motor unit. If it stopped right after a battery change, pairing it again often fixes it.
Why is my garage door keypad not working?
A garage door keypad usually stops working because its battery is dead, most often a 9-volt, Chamberlain says. If it still won't work with a new battery, it may need pairing again with the Learn button. A keypad mounted on metal can also lose its signal.
Why is my garage door opener light blinking?
On many Chamberlain and LiftMaster openers, the lights flash 10 times when the safety sensors are blocked or out of line, which stops the door closing. They flash twice when the Lock button is on. For sensors, see our guide to a garage door that won't close.
Who do I call for a garage door that won't open?
Call a garage door company for springs, cables, tracks and openers. Springs and cables are under very high tension, so never adjust them yourself. If the only problem is a dead outlet, an electrician can help.
How much does it cost to fix a garage door that won't open?
Many fixes for a garage door that won't open are free. New springs run $120–$350, an opener repair $100–$300, and a new opener $300–$940 (HomeGuide, Fixr).
How we built this
The questions follow the order a garage door tech checks a door that won't open: what the opener does, then power and the Lock, the remote's battery and pairing, the springs and cables, the release cord and the door's own lock, or the weather, rollers and settings. Each answer makes some causes more likely and others less likely.
Prices are 2026 national averages from published repair-cost guides, rounded. Your local prices will differ.
- Genie, garage door won't open or close? Try these tips (October 2021)
- Craftsman (Sears) garage door opener owner's manual, safety warnings (read October 2026)
- Overhead Door Company (Mid-Atlantic Door Group), garage door won't open in cold (updated August 2026)
- HomeGuide, garage door repair cost (January 2026)
- Fixr, garage door repair cost (January 2025)
- Chamberlain Group support, why do the lights on my opener flash and my door won't close (read October 2026)
- Chamberlain Group support, what the flashing LED next to the Learn button means (read October 2026)
- Chamberlain Group support, how to program a remote control (read October 2026)
- Chamberlain Group support, the wall button works, why won't my keypad work (read October 2026)
- Genie, G3T 3-button remote programming instructions (read October 2026)
How we make money: some links go to parts stores that pay us a small commission, and some pro listings pay us when you call them. Verdicts come from the diagnosis, not from who pays more.