Why is my dryer not heating or drying?

Wondering what's going on in there?

How your dryer heats and dries, in plain English

A dryer works like a hair dryer pointed into a spinning drum. It warms air, blows it through your wet clothes, and pushes the damp air outside.

The air's trip: warmed by the heater, through the spinning drum, past the lint screen, down the vent hose, and out the flap on the outside wall.

Here's the trip the air takes, step by step:

The heater warms the air. An electric dryer uses a long wire coil that glows hot, like a toaster. Pros call it the heating element. A gas dryer uses a small gas flame (the burner), lit by a glowing part called the igniter.
The warm air goes through the drum. The drum spins and tumbles the clothes so the warm air reaches every side.
The lint screen catches fuzz. The air leaves the drum through the lint screen, the pull-out screen you clean after every load.
The vent carries the damp air outside. A hose behind the dryer runs to a vent flap on the outside wall. If the air can't get out, the clothes stay wet and the dryer gets too hot.
Safety parts watch the heat. Small heat switches (thermostats) turn the heater on and off. A one-time thermal fuse shuts the heat off for good if the dryer overheats, a bit like a smoke alarm that cuts the power.

Hot but still damp? Then the heat is fine, and the water isn't getting out. Damp air has to leave through the lint screen and the vent. If either is blocked, the moist air stays in the drum, like a steamy bathroom with the fan off. Sensor cycles also stop when two metal bars in the drum (the moisture sensors) feel dry clothes. A waxy film from dryer sheets, or a load too small to touch them, can fool them into stopping early.

Clothes that come out of the washer dripping will take far longer, too. If that's happening, our guide to a washing machine that won't spin can help.

The drum can spin even when the heat is off. That's why a dryer that runs but stays cold usually has a problem in the heat side: the setting, the power, the airflow, a safety part, or the heater itself. The questions at the top check them in that order.

Who to call

Rather not do it yourself? Call an appliance repair tech.

That's a fine choice. Maybe you're busy. Maybe you're selling the house and just want it done right. An appliance repair tech can test the heating parts and swap the one that failed.

$80–$420Most no-heat repairs

$100–$180Dryer vent cleaning

Most repair companies charge $60–$150 to come out, and many put that toward the repair.

Find dryer repair near you

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What to say

Calling a pro? Here's what to say.

A few lines to read when they pick up, and the questions to ask before anyone comes out.

Before you call

Under a year old? Call the maker first.

Store protection plan? Call them first.

4.5 stars or more, and works on your brand.

Say this

Hi. My dryer runs, but it doesn't heat. When's the soonest you can get here? And what's your fee for the visit? Does it go toward the repair?

Always ask

What's your fee to come out, and does it go toward the repair?
Do you work on my brand, and can you bring the likely part on the first visit?
Will you tell me the full price before you start any work?

Watch out if

They push a brand-new appliance on the first visit for a small problem.
They won't give you a price before starting.
They want you to pay for parts before they've found the problem.

Feeling pushed to decide on the spot? You can say no and hang up. You owe nothing for a phone call.

Know what's wrong before they come

Answer up to 5 quick questions. We'll give you the words a pro uses.

Answer the questions →

More of a list person?

Common symptoms, causes, tests and costs

Find the row that sounds like your dryer. The quick test is something you can check yourself in a few minutes.

What you notice	What it probably is	Quick test	Do it yourself	With a pro	Verdict
Drum spins, air feels like room temperature	It's on a no-heat setting	Look at the temperature and cycle knobs	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: It's on a no-heat setting
Hot, but the cycle stops early; Eco Dry or a low dry level is on	An energy-saving or low-dry setting	Look at the settings and lights	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: An energy-saving or low-dry setting
Small loads come out damp; big loads are fine	The load is too small for the sensor	Dry the same items on Timed Dry	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: The load is too small for the sensor
Sensor cycles stop early with damp clothes	The moisture sensors are dirty	Wipe the bars and run a sensor cycle	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: The moisture sensors are dirty
Hot, but slow to dry; lint screen caked or waxy	The lint screen is clogged or waxy	Run water over the lint screen	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: The lint screen is clogged or waxy
Big loads come out damp in the middle	Too much in one load	Dry half the load and compare	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: Too much in one load
Clothes drip when you squeeze them out of the washer	The washer isn't spinning the water out	Squeeze a towel from the washer	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: The washer isn't spinning the water out
Electric dryer spins, no heat, breaker half off	Half of the dryer's breaker tripped	Look at the dryer's double breaker in the panel	Free	Not needed	FIXSee the answer: Half of the dryer's breaker tripped
Weak air at the outside flap; loads take 2 or more cycles, or it gets hot but won't dry	A clogged dryer vent	Feel the outside vent flap while it runs	Free	$100–$200	FIXSee the answer: A clogged dryer vent
Hose behind the dryer crushed, kinked, or plastic or foil	The vent hose is crushed or the wrong kind	Look behind the dryer	Free	$100–$200	FIXSee the answer: The vent hose is crushed or the wrong kind
Cold from the start, often with weak air at the outside vent	A blown safety fuse	Feel the outside flap. Weak air points here	Pro job	$80–$420	CALLSee the answer: A blown safety fuse
Electric dryer spins fine but is cold from the start	The heating coil burned out	Timed dry on high. Still cold after 5 minutes?	Pro job	$150–$350	CALLSee the answer: The heating coil burned out
Gas dryer spins fine but is cold from the start	The gas lighter wore out	Timed dry on high. Still cold after 5 minutes?	Pro job	$100–$250	CALLSee the answer: The gas lighter wore out
Gas dryer gets warm at first, then goes cold	The gas valve parts wore out	Feel the air at 3 minutes, then again at 10	Pro job	$150–$300	CALLSee the answer: The gas valve parts wore out
Warm at first, then cool, with strong air at the vent	A worn-out heat switch	Rule out weak air at the outside vent first	Pro job	$100–$260	CALLSee the answer: A worn-out heat switch
Burning smell, smoke or scorched clothes	A burning smell or smoke	None. Stop the dryer now	Pro job	$100–$430	CALLSee the answer: A burning smell or smoke
Stops early even with clean sensors and normal settings	A sensor or control problem	Clean the sensor bars first	Pro job	$100–$430	CALLSee the answer: A sensor or control problem

2026 U.S. averages, rounded. Pro prices include parts and labor. Most repair companies charge $60–$150 to come out, and many put that toward the repair. Nights, weekends and big cities cost more. See all repair prices

Want proof the heat is working?

The 5-minute vent test

This tells you whether the dryer is making heat, and whether the air can get out. You can use your hand, or a kitchen thermometer if you have one.

Clean the lint screen.
Put in a few damp towels. Start Timed Dry on High for 20 minutes.
Wait 5 minutes. Go outside to the vent flap.
Hold your hand (or the thermometer) in the air coming out for 30 seconds.

Strong and warm: the heat and the vent both work. Try smaller loads and Timed Dry.
Strong but cool: the air gets out, but the heat isn't on. Check the setting and breaker, then call a pro.
Weak, warm or hot: the heat works, but the vent is clogged. Clean it before you run another load.
Weak and cool: the vent is clogged, and the safety fuse may have blown. Clean the vent, then call a pro.

Air at the flap usually feels warm, not hot. Warm air that keeps coming means the heater is working.

Not sure it's safe to keep running?

Turn it off right away if…

You smell burning or see smoke. If you see flames, keep the door shut, leave and call 911.
Clothes come out scorched or too hot to touch.
The breaker trips again after you reset it.
You smell gas (like rotten eggs). Leave the house and call your gas company from outside.
The outside flap has almost no air coming out. Clean the vent before the next load.

Running a cold dryer over and over won't fix it. With a clogged vent, every extra load adds heat and lint.

Got a big repair quote?

Should you repair it or replace it?

Most no-heat repairs are among the cheaper dryer fixes. HomeAdvisor puts them at $80–$420, and many are a cheap part plus labor. Ask yourself three things before a big repair:

How old is it? Many dryers last 10 years or more. A heater or fuse on a younger dryer is usually worth fixing.
Is it still under warranty? Most come with a 1-year warranty from the maker. Check before you pay.
The half rule. If the repair costs more than half the price of a new dryer, replacing it often makes more sense.

Example: a $150 fuse repair on a 6-year-old dryer is worth fixing. A $400 repair on a 14-year-old dryer that's had other problems is worth comparing with a new one.

Ran into a word you don't know?

Dryer words, explained

Tap through these before you go looking. The drawings show roughly what each part looks like.

Lint screen: The pull-out screen that catches fuzz, usually inside the door or on top. Clean it after every load.
Dryer vent: The hose and duct that carry hot, damp air from the back of the dryer to the outside.
Vent flap: The hood or flap on the outside wall where the dryer's air comes out. It should open wide when the dryer runs.
Drum: The big round tub that spins and tumbles your clothes.
Thermal fuse: A small one-time safety part that cuts the heat if the dryer overheats. Once it blows, it has to be replaced.
Thermostat: A small heat switch inside the dryer. The cycling thermostat holds the temperature. The high-limit thermostat shuts the heat off if it gets too hot.
Heating element: The long wire coil that heats the air in an electric dryer. It works like the coil in a toaster.
Burner: The small gas flame that heats the air in a gas dryer.
Igniter: A small part in a gas dryer that glows bright orange to light the burner.
Gas valve coils: Two small coils on a gas dryer's valve. They open the gas once the igniter is hot.
Breaker: A safety switch in your home's breaker box (the gray metal panel). Turning off the dryer's breaker cuts its power.
Double breaker: Two breaker switches joined by a bar. Electric dryers use one because the heater needs twice the power of a normal outlet.
Dryer plug: The big 3- or 4-prong plug on an electric dryer. It goes in a large 240-volt outlet.
Gas shutoff valve: A handle on the gas pipe behind a gas dryer. Turn it crosswise to the pipe to close it.
Timed Dry and Sensor Dry: Timed Dry runs for the minutes you pick. Sensor or Auto Dry stops when it thinks the clothes are dry, which can be early.
Model tag: A sticker with your model number, usually inside the door opening or on the back. Pros and parts stores ask for it.
Moisture sensors: Two curved metal bars inside the drum that feel how wet the clothes are. Sensor cycles stop when they feel dry clothes.
Eco Dry: An energy-saving setting on many newer dryers. It uses less heat, so clothes can come out slightly damp.
Vent hose (transition duct): The short hose behind the dryer that connects it to the vent in the wall. Metal works best.

Still have questions?

Questions people ask most

Why is my dryer running but not heating?

A dryer can run without heating because the drum and the heat run on separate parts. The most common causes are a no-heat setting, a half-tripped breaker on electric dryers, a clogged vent, or a blown safety fuse.

Why is my dryer hot but not drying, or taking two cycles?

A dryer that's hot but not drying usually can't get the damp air out, or it stops too soon. A clogged vent is the most common cause, and it's also why clothes take two cycles. Check the lint screen, then feel the air at the outside flap; it should be strong and steady. Then check for Eco Dry, a low dry level, dirty moisture sensor bars, or too big a load.

Is a dryer that won't heat an emergency?

A dryer that won't heat is not an emergency, but a burning smell, smoke or scorched clothes is. Then stop the dryer, unplug it (gas: close the gas valve) and call. If you see flames, keep the door shut, get out and call 911. If you smell gas, leave and call the gas company from outside. Don't keep running loads with a clogged vent, because trapped heat and lint can start a fire.

Why do my clothes come out damp on the sensor cycle?

Clothes come out damp on the sensor cycle when the moisture sensor bars are coated with film from dryer sheets. A load that's too small to touch them does it too. Wipe the bars with a little dish soap, and use Timed Dry for small loads.

How do I know if my thermal fuse is blown?

A blown thermal fuse can only be confirmed with a meter, which is a job for a pro. From the outside, a common sign is a dryer that's cold from the start after the vent was clogged. On some models, a blown fuse stops the dryer from running at all.

Can a bad timer cause no heat in a dryer?

Yes, a bad timer can cause no heat on some dryers. Sears Home Services says timer contacts that fail a meter test mean the timer needs replacing. Testing it means opening the dryer, so check the setting, the breaker and the vent first, then call a pro.

Why won't my brand-new dryer heat?

A brand-new dryer that won't heat usually has a setup problem, not a broken part. Whirlpool says to check for an Air Only setting, and both breakers on an electric dryer. On a gas dryer, the gas valve behind it must be open, with the handle in line with the pipe. If the power cord or outlet might be wrong, have the installer or an electrician check it.

Is a gas dryer different from an electric dryer when it won't heat?

Yes, gas and electric dryers heat in different ways. Electric dryers heat with a wire coil and need a double breaker. Gas dryers heat with a small flame lit by an igniter. Both share the same vent and safety fuse problems.

Why does my dryer heat for a few minutes, then go cold?

A dryer that heats for a few minutes, then goes cold, often has a clogged vent or a worn heat switch. On a gas dryer, worn gas valve coils are a common cause too. Check the vent first.

How long does it take to replace a dryer heating element?

Swapping a dryer heating element usually takes 30 to 60 minutes once the part is in hand, parts sellers like PartSelect say. We still suggest a pro, because it means opening a 240-volt dryer.

Who do I call for a dryer that won't heat?

Call an appliance repair tech for a dryer that won't heat. You can check the setting, reset the breaker and clean the vent yourself. Replacing a fuse, heating coil or igniter means opening a 240-volt or gas appliance, so that's a job for a pro. A dryer vent cleaning company can clear a long or rooftop vent.

How much does it cost to fix a dryer that won't heat?

Fixing a dryer that won't heat can cost nothing if it's the setting, the breaker or the vent. A pro vent cleaning runs about $100–$200. Heat repairs usually run about $80–$420, depending on the part.

How we built this

The questions follow the order an appliance tech checks a dryer: does it heat at all, then for no heat the fuel, setting, power and vent, and for hot but damp the settings, sensors, lint screen, load, washer spin and vent. Each answer makes some causes more likely and others less likely.

Prices are 2026 national averages from published repair-cost guides, rounded. Your local prices will differ.

How we make money: some links go to parts stores that pay us a small commission, and some pro listings pay us when you call them. Verdicts come from the diagnosis, not from who pays more.